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The city lies on the River Wear , to the west of Sunderland , south of Newcastle upon Tyne and to the north of Darlington. Founded over the final resting place of St Cuthbert , its Norman cathedral became a centre of pilgrimage in medieval England. The castle has been the home of Durham University since HM Prison Durham is also located close to the city centre.

City of Durham is the name of the civil parish. The name "Durham" comes from the Celtic element " dun ", signifying a hill fort , and the Old Norse "holme", which translates to island. The modern form Durham came into use later in the city's history. The north eastern historian Robert Surtees chronicled the name changes in his History and Antiquities of the County Palatine of Durham but states that it is an "impossibility" to tell when the city's modern name came into being.

Archeological evidence suggests a history of settlement in the area since roughly BC. Local legend states that the city was founded in A. The 12th century chronicler Symeon of Durham recounts that after wandering in the north, Saint Cuthbert's bier miraculously came to a halt at the hill of Warden Law and, despite the effort of the congregation, would not move.

The legend of the Dun Cow, which is first documented in The Rites of Durham , an anonymous account about the Durham Cathedral, published in , builds on Symeon's account. She stated that she was seeking her lost dun cow , which she had last seen at Dun Holm. The monks, realising that this was a sign from the saint, followed her.

The legend is interpreted by a Victorian relief stone carving on the south face of the cathedral and, more recently, by the bronze sculpture 'Durham Cow' , Andrew Burton , which reclines by the River Wear in view of the cathedral.

During the medieval period the city gained spiritual prominence as the final resting place of Saint Cuthbert and Saint Bede the Venerable. Saint Cuthbert became famous for two reasons. Firstly, the miraculous healing powers he had displayed in life continued after his death, with many stories of those visiting the saint's shrine being cured of all manner of diseases.

This led to him being known as the "wonder worker of England". Durham's geographical position has always given it an important place in the defence of England against the Scots. The city suffered from plague outbreaks in , and Owing to the divine providence evidenced in the city's legendary founding, the Bishop of Durham has always enjoyed the title "Bishop by Divine Providence" [16] as opposed to other bishops, who are "Bishop by Divine Permission".

Charles I came to Durham twice during his reign. Firstly, he came to the cathedral for a majestic service in which he was entertained by the Chapter and Bishop at great expense at the start of his reign. His second visitation to the city came towards the end of the civil war, escaping from the city as Oliver Cromwell 's forces got closer. Another local legend has it that Cromwell stayed in a room in the present Royal County Hotel on Old Elvet during the civil war.

This was not due to direct assault by Cromwell but the abolition of the Church of England [22] and the closure of religious institutions pertaining to it. The city has always relied upon the Dean and Chapter and cathedral as an economic force. The castle suffered considerable damage and dilapidation during the Commonwealth due to the abolition of the office of bishop whose residence it was. Cromwell confiscated the castle and sold it to the Lord Mayor of London shortly after taking it from the bishop.

At the Restoration in , John Cosin a former canon was appointed bishop and set about a major restoration project. This included the commissioning of the famous elaborate woodwork in the cathedral choir , the font cover and the Black Staircase in the castle.

In it was proposed that Durham could become a sea port by digging a canal north to join the River Team , a tributary of the River Tyne near Gateshead. Nothing came of the plan, but the statue of Neptune in the Market Place was a constant reminder of Durham's maritime possibilities. The thought of ships docking at the Sands or Millburngate remained fresh in the minds of Durham businessmen. In , a new proposal hoped to make the Wear navigable from Durham to Sunderland by altering the river's course, but the increasing size of ships made this impractical.

This was further compounded by the fact Sunderland had grown as the north east's main port and centre for shipping. The Great Reform Act saw the removal of the Prince Bishop's powers, [28] although he still has the right to a seat in the House of Lords [29] and is regarded as the second most senior bishop and fourth most senior clergyman in the Church of England.

The first census, conducted in , [32] states that Durham City had a population of 7, The Industrial Revolution mostly passed the city by. However, the city was well known for carpet making and weaving. The Industrial Revolution also placed the city at the heart of the coalfields, [35] the county's main industry until the s. Practically every village around the city had a coal mine and, although these have since disappeared as part of the regional decline in heavy industry, the traditions, heritage and community spirit are still evident.

The 19th century also saw the founding of Durham University [36] thanks to the benevolence of Bishop William Van Mildert and the Chapter in Durham Castle became the first college [34] University College, Durham and the bishop moved to Auckland Castle as his only residence in the county.

Bishop Hatfield's Hall later Hatfield College, Durham was added in specifically for the sons of poorer families, the Principal inaugurating a system new to English university life of advance fees to cover accommodation and communal dining.

The first Durham Miners' Gala was attended by 5, miners in in Wharton Park, [37] and remains the largest socialist trade union event in the world.

During the 20th century the University expanded greatly. St John's College and St Cuthbert's Society were founded on the Bailey , completing the series of colleges in that area of the city. From the early s to early s the university expanded to the south of the city centre.

Trevelyan , Van Mildert , Collingwood , and Grey colleges were established, and new buildings for St Aidan's and St Mary's colleges for women, formerly housed on the Bailey, were created. The final 20th century collegiate addition came from the merger of the independent nineteenth-century colleges of the Venerable Bede and St Hild, which joined the university in as the College of St Hild and St Bede. Dunelm House for the use of the students' union was built first, followed by Elvet Riverside, containing lecture theatres and staff offices.

To the southeast of the city centre sports facilities were built at Maiden Castle, adjacent to the Iron Age fort of the same name , and the Mountjoy site was developed, starting in , eventually containing the university library, administrative buildings, and facilities for the Faculty of Science.

This states that the Luftwaffe attempted to target Durham, but was thwarted when Cuthbert created a mist that covered both the castle and cathedral, sparing them from bombing. The exact events of the night are disputed by contemporary eyewitnesses. Among the reasons given for the decision were 'Durham Cathedral [being] the largest and most perfect monument of "Norman" style architecture in England', and the cathedral's vaulting being an early and experimental model of the gothic style.

The River Wear flows north through the city, making an incised meander which encloses the centre on three sides to form Durham's peninsula. At the base of the peninsula is the Market Place, which still hosts regular markets; a permanent indoor market, Durham Indoor Market , is also situated just off the Market Place.

The Market Place and surrounding streets are one of the main commercial and shopping areas of the city. From the Market Place, the Bailey leads south past Palace Green ; The Bailey is almost entirely owned and occupied by the university and the cathedral. Durham is a hilly city, claiming to be built upon the symbolic seven hills. Upon the most central and prominent position high above the Wear, the cathedral dominates the skyline.

The steep riverbanks are densely wooded, adding to the picturesque beauty of the city. West of the city centre, another river, the River Browney , drains south to join the Wear to the south of the city. The county town of County Durham, until Durham was located in the City of Durham local government district, which extended beyond the city, and had a total population of 87, in , covering There are three old roads out of the Market Place: Elvet Bridge leads to the Elvet area of the city, Durham Prison and the south; Prebends Bridge is smaller and provides access from the Bailey to south Durham.

From here, the city spreads out into the Framwelgate , Crossgate , Neville's Cross and viaduct districts, which are largely residential areas. Beyond the viaduct lie the outlying districts of Framwellgate Moor and Neville's Cross. Heading north from the Market Place leads to Claypath. The road curves back round to the east and beyond it lie Gilesgate , Gilesgate Moor and Dragonville. This primarily helps to maintain separation from Chester-le-Street, [43] and restrain expansion of the city and coalescence with nearby villages such as Bearpark , Great Lumbley and Sherburn.

It was first drawn up in the s. The historical city centre of Durham has changed little over the past years. It is made up of the peninsula containing the cathedral, palace green, former administrative buildings for the palatine and Durham Castle.

Sir Walter Scott was so inspired by the view of the cathedral from South Street [45] that he wrote "Harold the Dauntless", a poem about Saxons and Vikings set in County Durham and published on 30 January The following lines from the poem are carved into a stone tablet on Prebends Bridge:. Grey towers of Durham Yet well I love thy mixed and massive piles Half church of God, half castle 'gainst the Scot And long to roam those venerable aisles With records stored of deeds long since forgot.

The old commercial section of the city encompasses the peninsula on three sides, following the River Wear. The peninsula was historically surrounded by the castle wall extending from the castle keep and broken by two gatehouses to the north and west of the enclosure. The medieval city was made up of the cathedral, castle and administrative buildings on the peninsula. The outlying commercial section of the city, especially around the North Road area, saw much change in the s during a redevelopment spearheaded by Durham City Council ; however, much of the original mediaeval street plan remains intact in the area close to the cathedral and market place.

The table below gives the average temperature, rainfall and sunshine figures taken between and , and extreme temperatures back to for the Met Office weather station in Durham:.

Like the rest of the United Kingdom, Durham has a temperate climate. The ancient borough covering Durham was Durham and Framwelgate , which was reformed by the Municipal Corporations Act The district was abolished in with its responsibilities assumed by Durham County Council , a unitary authority. Since April city status has been held by charter trustees , who are the Durham County Council councillors for the area of the former district. The trustees appoint the Mayor of Durham.

Durham Town Hall is located on the west side of the Market Place. The earliest part of the complex of buildings dates from The Guildhall at the front of the building was rebuilt by Bishop Tunstall in , and again by Bishop Cosin in The 'new' town hall, at the rear, was opened in at the same time as the indoor market, which extends beneath and either side of the hall.

The latest major refurbishment took place in , and the building continues to be used by the mayoralty and for civic events. The County Council approved the plans in September The City of Durham Parish Council was created on 1 April , with the first elections for the 15 council seats taking place on 3 May This is a table of trend of regional gross value added of County Durham at current basic prices published pp.

The whole of the centre of Durham is designated a conservation area. The conservation area was first designated on 9 August , and was extended on 25 November

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