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Under the buildings of the modern city there is a continuous stratification attesting to human settlement over the course of some five thousand years, from the Neolithic to today. Historical sites include the prehistoric Domus de Janas , very damaged by cave activity, a large Carthaginian era necropolis , a Roman era amphitheatre , a Byzantine basilica , three Pisan-era towers and a strong system of fortification that made the town the core of Spanish Habsburg imperial power in the western Mediterranean Sea.
Its natural resources have always been its sheltered harbour, the often powerfully fortified hill of Castel di Castro , the modern Casteddu , the salt from its lagoons, and, from the hinterland , wheat from the Campidano plain and silver and other ores from the Iglesiente mines.
Cagliari was the capital of the Kingdom of Sardinia from to , when Turin became the formal capital of the kingdom which in became the Kingdom of Italy. Today the city is a regional cultural, educational, political and artistic centre, known for its diverse Art Nouveau architecture and several monuments. It is also the seat of the University of Cagliari ,  founded in , and of the Primate Roman Catholic archdiocese of Sardinia ,   since the 5th century AD.
The Cagliari area has been inhabited since the Neolithic. It occupies a favourable position between the sea and a fertile plain and is surrounded by two marshes which provides defence against attacks from the inland. There are high mountains nearby, to which people could evacuate if the settlement had to be given up. Relics of prehistoric inhabitants were found in the hill of Monte Claro Monte Claro culture and in Cape Sant'Elia several domus de janas. The Phoenician settlement was located in the Stagno di Santa Gilla , west of the present centre of Cagliari.
This was also the site of the Roman Portus Scipio , and when Arab pirates raided the area in the 8th century it became the refuge for people fleeing from the city. Other Phoenician settlements have been found at Cape Sant'Elia.
In the late 6th century BC Carthage took control of part of Sardinia, and Cagliari grew substantially under their domination, as testified by the large Tuvixeddu necropolis and other remains.
Cagliari was a fortified settlement in what is now the modern Marina quarter, with an annexed holy area in the modern Stampace. No mention of it is found on the occasion of the Roman conquest of the island, but during the Second Punic War it was the headquarters of the praetor, Titus Manlius Torquatus , from whence he conducted his operations against Hampsicora and the Carthaginians. The Romans built a new settlement east of the old Punic city, the Vicus munitus Caralis i.
The two urban agglomerations merged gradually during the second century B. Florus calls it the urbs urbinum , or capital of Sardinia, and represents it as taken and severely punished by Gracchus ,  but this statement is wholly at variance with Livy's account of the wars of Gracchus, in Sardinia, according to which the cities were faithful to Rome, and the revolt was confined to the mountain tribes.
Cagliari continued to be regarded as the capital of the island under the Roman Empire , and though it did not become a colony , obtained the status of Municipium. Remains of Roman public buildings were found to the west of Marina in Piazza del Carmine. There was an area of ordinary housing near the modern Via Roma, and richer houses on the slopes of the Marina distinct. The amphitheatre is located to the west of the Castello.
A Christian community is attested in Cagliari at least as early as the 3rd century, and by the end of that century the city had a Christian bishop. In the middle decades of the 4th century bishop Lucifer of Cagliari was exiled because of his opposition to the sentence against Athanasius of Alexandria at the Synod of Milan. He was banished to the desert of Thebais by the emperor Constantius II. Claudian describes the ancient city of Karalis as extending to a considerable length towards the promontory or headland, the projection of which sheltered its port.
The port affords good anchorage for large vessels, but besides this, which is only a well-sheltered standby, there is a large salt-water lake or lagoon, called the Stagno di Cagliari , adjoining the city and communicating by a narrow channel with the bay, which appears from Claudian to have been used in ancient times as an inner harbor or basin. After the fall of the Western Roman Empire Cagliari fell, together with the rest of Sardinia, into the hands of the Vandals , but appears to have retained its importance throughout the Middle Ages.
Subsequently, ruled by the Vandals and then part of the Byzantine Empire , Cagliari became the capital of a gradually independent Judgedom. However, there is some evidence that during this period of independence from external rule, the city was deserted because it was too exposed to attacks by Moorish pirates coming from north Africa and Spain.
Apparently many people left Caralis and founded a new town named Santa Igia in an area close to the Santa Gilla swamp to the west of Cagliari, but relatively distant from the sea. The Judgedom of Cagliari comprised a large area of the Campidano plain, the Sulcis - Iglesiente and the mountain region of Ogliastra. During the 11th century, the Republic of Pisa began to extend its political influence over the Judgedom of Cagliari. Pisa and the maritime republic of Genoa had a keen interest in Sardinia because it was a perfect strategic base for controlling the commercial routes between Italy and North Africa.
Some of the fortifications that still surround the current district of Castello were built by the Pisans, including the two remaining white limestone towers early 14th century designed by the architect Giovanni Capula.
Marina and Stampace were guarded by walls, in contrast to Villanova, which was mostly home to peasants. In the second decade of the 14th century the Crown of Aragon conquered Sardinia after a series of battles against the Pisans.
During the siege of Castel di Castro , the Aragonese, led by the infant Alfonso , built a stronghold on a more southern hill, that of Bonaria. After the expulsion of the Tuscans,  the Castello district was repopulated by the Catalan settlers of Bonaria while the indigenous population was, as in the past, concentrated in Stampace and Villanova. The kings of Aragon and later the kings of Spain , were represented in Cagliari by a viceroy , who resided in the Palazzo Regio.
In the 16th century the fortifications of the city were strengthened with the construction of the bastions and the rights and benefits of the Catalan-Aragonese were extended to all citizens. The intellectual life was relatively lively and in the early years of the 17th century the University was founded.
As rulers of Sardinia, the Savoys took the title of kings of the Sardinian kingdom. During the Savoyard Era, until , the institutions of the Sardinian kingdom remained unchanged, but with the " Perfect Fusion " in that year, all the possessions of the House of Savoy House, comprising Savoy , Nice now part of France , Piedmont and from Liguria , were merged into a unitary state. Although Sardinian by name, the kingdom had its parliament in Turin , where the Savoys resided, and its members were mainly aristocrats from Piedmont or the mainland.
A French army landed on Poetto beach and advanced towards Cagliari, but the French were defeated by Sardinians who had decided to defend themselves against the revolutionary army.
The people of Cagliari hoped to receive some concession from the Savoys in return for their defence of the town. For example, aristocrats from Cagliari asked for a Sardinian representative in the parliament of the kingdom. When the Savoyards refused any concession to the Sardinians, the inhabitants of Cagliari rose up against them and expelled all the representatives of the kingdom along with the Piedmontese rulers.
However, the Savoys regained control of the town after a brief period of autonomous rule. Starting in the s, in the wake of the unification of Italy , the city experienced a century of rapid growth. Many buildings were erected by the end of the 19th century during the term of office of mayor Ottone Bacaredda.
Numerous buildings combined influences from Art Nouveau together with the traditional Sardinian taste for floral decoration; an example is the white marble City Hall near the port. Bacaredda is also known for his strong repression of one of the earliest worker strikes at the beginning of the 20th century. In order to escape from the danger of bombardments and difficult living conditions, many people were evacuated from the city into the countryside. The city received the Gold Medal of Military Valour.
After the Italian armistice with the Allies in September , the German Army took control of Cagliari and the island, but soon retreated peacefully in order to reinforce their positions in mainland Italy.
The American Army then took control of Cagliari. After the war, the population of Cagliari grew again and many apartment blocks and recreational areas were erected in new residential districts. And suddenly there is Cagliari: It is strange and rather wonderful, not a bit like Italy.
The city piles up lofty and almost miniature, and makes me think of Jerusalem: One wonders how it ever got there. And it seems like Spain—or Malta: It is a steep and lonely city, treeless, as in some old illumination.
Yet withal rather jewel-like: The air is cold, blowing bleak and bitter, the sky is all curd. And that is Cagliari. It has that curious look, as if it could be seen, but not entered. It is like some vision, some memory, something that has passed away. Impossible that one can actually walk in that city: Yet the ship drifts nearer, nearer, and we are looking for the actual harbour.
The city of Cagliari is situated in the south of Sardinia, overlooking the centre of the eponymous gulf, also called Golfo degli Angeli "Bay of Angels" after an ancient legend. The plain is actually a Graben formed during the Alpine orogeny of the Cenozoic , which separated Sardinia from the European continent, roughly where the Gulf of Lion is now. The Graben filled in the course of tectonic movements associated with the breakup of the ancient island Paleozoic skeleton.
The repeated intrusion of the sea left calcareous sediments that formed a series of hills that mark the territory of Cagliari. Castello is where the fortified town arose in the Middle Age near the harbour of the port, other hills are those of Mount Urpinu, the St. Elias hill, also known as the Sella del Diavolo "Saddle of the Devil" for its shape, Tuvumannu and Tuvixeddu, the site of the ancient Punic and Roman necropolis, the small Bonaria hill, where the basilica stands, and the San Michele hill, with the eponymous castle on top.
On the cold, clear days of winter, the snowy peaks of Gennargentu can be seen from the highest points of the city. The city has four historic neighbourhoods: The comune of Cagliari has one circoscrizione , the town of Pirri about Cagliari is one of the "greenest" Italian cities.
Every inhabitant of Cagliari has access to Its mild climate allows the growth of numerous subtropical plants, such as Jacaranda mimosifolia , Ficus macrophylla , with some huge specimens in Via Roma and in the University Botanic Gardens , Erythrina caffra with its stunning red flowers, Ficus retusa , which provides shade for several of the city's streets, Araucaria heterophylla , the date palm Phoenix dactylifera , the Canary Islands palm Phoenix canariensis and the Mexican Fan Palm Washingtonia robusta.
The Molentargius - Saline Regional Park  is located near the city. Some mountain parks, such as Monte Arcosu or Maidopis, with large forests and wildlife Sardinian deer, wild boars, etc. The main beach of Cagliari is the Poetto. Poetto is also the name of the district located on the western stretch of the strip between the beach and Saline di Molentargius "Molentargius's Salt Mine".
Another smaller beach is that of Calamosca near the Sant'Elia district. On the coast between Calamosca and Poetto beaches, among the cliffs of the Sella del Diavolo, lies Cala Fighera, a small bay. Heavy snowfalls occur on average every thirty years.
But heat waves can occur, due to African anticyclone, starting in June. From mid-June to mid-September, rain is a rare event, limited to brief afternoon storms.
The rainy season starts in September, and the first cold days come in December. Winds are frequent, especially the mistral and sirocco ; in summer a marine sirocco breeze called s'imbattu in Sardinian language lowers the temperature and brings some relief from the heat.
Minors children aged 18 and younger totalled The average age of Cagliari residents is The ratio of the population over 65 years of age to that under the age of 18, is The elderly population, defined as being over 65 years of age, has increased by The current birth rate in Cagliari is 6.
The average number of people of any age per household is 2. The population of Cagliari is structured like that of other first world countries, especially as to the prevalence of an elderly population. The trend of these rates in the Cagliari metropolitan area is proportionally reversed in the suburbs, where most younger families move. As of [update] , 4. In , during the fascist regime, the neighbouring municipalities of Pirri, Monserrato , Selargius , Quartucciu and Elmas , were merged with that of Cagliari.
Mussolini's regime wanted to streamline the local administration by eliminating many small towns and at the same time show that Italy was a major power with many large cities. After the war these small municipalities gradually regained their autonomy, except for the former town of Pirri.
The first table shows the inhabitants of the town in its present borders, the second one the commune population including the merged municipalities. The mountains are largely covered by forests mostly managed by the Ente Foreste of the Autonomous Region of Sardinia. The Metropolitan City is defined by municipalities where the population increased between the last two censuses, in a region where the population is otherwise generally decreasing.
These municipalities welcome immigrants to the urban area whose main nucleus, the city of Cagliari, has a high number of elderly people. The urbanisation towards the area of Cagliari was, in percentage terms, impressive, making the capital of the island a metropolis surrounded by rural areas increasingly depopulated. This urbanisation is also reflected in the concentration in Cagliari of most of the economic activities and wealth.
As the capital city of the Autonomous Region of Sardinia, Cagliari is the administrative hub and headquarters of the region as well as of the provincial offices of the Italian central administration. Cagliari is also the main trade and industrial centre of the island, with numerous commercial sites and factories within its metropolitan boundaries.
The Cagliari-Sarroch port system was the third in Italy for goods movements in The first department store, La Rinascente opened in in the centre of the city, and it is still open today. Cagliari is also home to an Amazon warehouse. Banca di Credito Sardo was based in Cagliari until it was absorbed by the parent company Intesa Sanpaolo. The Macchiareddu-Grogastru area between Cagliari and Capoterra is one of the most important industrial areas of Sardinia, in conjunction with a large international container terminal port at Giorgino.
The communications provider Tiscali also has its headquarters in Cagliari. One of the six oil refinery supersites in Europe, Saras , is located within the metropolitan area at Sarroch. Tourism is one of the major industries of the city, although historical venues such as its monumental Middle Ages and Early modern period defence system, its Carthaginian, Roman and Byzantine ruins are less highlighted compared to the recreational beaches and coastline.
Cruise ships touring the Mediterranean often stop for passengers at Cagliari, and the city is a traffic hub to the nearby beaches of Villasimius , Chia , Pula and Costa Rei , as well as to the urban beach of Poettu. Pula is home to the archaeological site of the Punic and Roman city of Nora. Especially in summer many clubs and pubs are goals for young locals and tourists. Pubs and night-clubs are concentrated in the Corso Vittorio Emanuele II, a narrow street in Stampace district, in the Marina district, near the port and in the Castello district, The clubs are mostly to be found on the Poetto Beach in summer or in Viale Marconi in winter.
There are many others hotels in seaside resort of his gulf. Considerable remains of the ancient city of Karalis are still visible, including those of the Tuvixeddu necropolis the largest Punic necropolis still in existence , the Roman amphitheatre , traditionally called Is centu scalas "One hundred steps" , and of an aqueduct used to provide generally scarce water.
Still visible are also some ancient cisterns of vast extent, the ruins of a small circular temple, and numerous sepulchres on a hill outside the modern town that appear to have formed the necropolis of the ancient city. The Palaeo-Christian Basilica of San Saturnino , dedicated to a martyr killed under Diocletian 's reign, Saturninus of Cagliari , patron saint of the city, was built in the 5th century.
Of the original building the dome and the central part remain, to which two arms one with a nave and two aisles were added later. A Palaeo-Christian crypt is also under the church of San Lucifero , dedicated to Saint Lucifer , a bishop of the city. The old medieval town called Castello in Italian, Casteddu de susu in Sardinian, "the upper castle" lies on top of a hill with a view of the Gulf of Cagliari also known as Angels' Gulf.
Most of its city walls are intact and include two early 14th-century white limestone towers, the Torre di San Pancrazio and the Torre dell'Elefante , typical examples of Pisan military architecture.
The local white limestone was also used to build the walls of the city and many other buildings, besides the towers. The exact period of construction of a fortress on this hill is unknown at present, due to the superposition of layers of buildings along the history.
Some scholars  have suggested a first urbanization of the quarter in the Punic era on the basis of similarity of the planimetry with the contemporary Carthaginian fortress of Monte Sirai. Recently, archaeological excavations have identified Punic and Roman buildings under the ramparts of the fortress.
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