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Just For Fun m4w Middle age man waiting for a thin woman for no strings attached fun. I'm originally from Arkansas, and kife I live on the border of Ark and Mo, Needing a stud in my life (Mo) I have a new dirt bike seeking for someone who would like to go riding with me in the or the Quachitas. I do understand.
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Learn the exact step-by-step process to start and complete your dream bathroom makeover in 10 days plus exclusive video training! If you have an older home built before then your studs could actually be a legitimate 2 inches. Baseboards should be attached to studs and if the spacing of nails is about 16 inches this might be the case. The old tried and true method of knocking on the wall with your knuckles helps find the general location of studs.
You can also use a level to draw a perfectly plumb line on the stud if you need the entire height of the stud. Having the right tool makes all the difference. This Franklin Sensor is awesome, I highly recommend it.
Send Me The Guide. My knuckles are bloody from the knocking method! I would love the Franklin Sensor!!!!! I would like to try the Franklin Sensor because, it seems quick and easy. Anyway, thank you for the video instruction that you do. I enjoy watching them and learning something new. LOL, I like swiss cheese but mostly in my sandwich. I have tapped, sensed, nailed, and measured.
The stud finding adventure is never dull in my DIY projects, I keep well stocked in patch kits and quarts of paint! Wish I had some plaster and lathe to test this on Chris. But I might take this other to a rental of mine and see how it performs. I usually tap, not always so accurate. Would love this tool. With so many great reviews on Amazon I figured this would work. Needless to say the thick walls also preclude knocking to find studs—every inch of wall sounds solid! I would love to get one of these and give it a try!
Depending on what I am hanging I have been known to just drill into the wall and find the studs that way.
The Franklin Sensor would be a great addition to my tool bag. I currently use the knocking method combined with looking for other visual cues to try to find studs. I have plaster walls without lathe. I tap, measure, and probe with small nails. My wife hates seeing me use the last method. A good stud finder would simplify things greatly! I have only used the knocking method and tried to guess where the studs are. Because of this my house is lacking in quite a few areas no towel racks or toilet paper holder in bathrooms.
My New Years resolution was to teach myself through websites like yours how to tackle these projects! My current stud finder gives me such wonky readings.
I resort to sticking tiny sewing pins into the drywall until I hit the stud. The Franklin sensor would make it so much easier! Just recently found out about the magnet option but your recommendation for the Franklin stud finder is very encouraging. Would love to win one! I usually end up after tapping by drilling small holes to confirm. My current stud finder is a piece of junk, so I generally use a combination of the techniques you described.
Would love to try yours! I currently use a hammer, lightly tapping the wall. Works pretty good, I say pretty good because accurate for the middle of a stud, not so much for the edges!! I would take good care of this new baby! I have one of these stud finders, like it a lot. My son has it right now and I will probably never see it again. As a designer for furniture showrooms and stores, I do much of the labor myself hanging art, drapery rods and always end up running into studs.
The Franklin Sensor looks awesome and exactly what I need for my business. I have this stud finder and can attest that it is truly awesome. I was using a different bad one and my wall looked like a blind person was randomly drilling holes in the wall! Using a new stud finder would be awesome though! I used a pin to try and find the stud to put up my curtain rods — thought the pin hole would be inconspicuous however when you have a line of pin holes across a two foot span they become very noticeable and I never did find the stud.
When we renovated a couple of years later we found that there was a space between the drywall and the stud and my pin was not long enough to reach it. I usually use try to find them by knocking and then using a hammer and small nail. Used that method since owned the house, biggest issue I have had is slightly missing the stud! Thanks Jeff, keep them coming! I have several of the magnet on a pivot sort of stud finder.
OK some of the holes are much larger than pin holes. I wonder if I could paint little flowers around the holes and pretend they are just decorative? Of course, being able to locate the studs would be quite a bit easier. I need all the help I can get. If this tool is as accurate as you claim, I would go out and buy one!
Tapping its much better. We have an inferior stud finder that is bloody frustrating to use as we can never get a consistent result. I have a project coming up I could use a very good stud finder for the kitchen, which would alleviate many headaches. Just having all those extra LEDs and the way it seems to be sensing does look like a much better method. Thanks for your tips and videos! I must have ADHD or some such as this sort of thing just catches my eyes yes, I can read with both eyes and tends to stop me in my tracks, so to speak.
Have a good day. Sometimes I get it right! My wife always tells me I should use her because she can spot a stud a mile away! Thanks for your great ideas. My books have been in a neat stack on the floor for years. My wife told me once she was a pretty good stud finder.
Does sometimes look like swiss cheese when I am done but hopefully whatever I am hanging covers it. This might be what I have been waiting for. I currently use the cheap yellow Zircon stud finder, supplemented by my very sore knuckles.
It usually takes 5 or 6 sweeps across the stud before I feel confident of its dimensions. Prior to this stud finder, the process was using knuckles and a small nail. Once I think I know the location from knocking on the wall, I would drive a small nail into the sheetrock and hope for the best. This way also improves your drywall patching skills! Well…Ahem insert Sheepish grin , my current stud finding method involves… sore knuckles, a drill or nails and sometimes a keyhole saw, also drywall patches and mud to fix the whole mess… need I say more?
I actually own a small stud finder which is nothing but an enclosed magnetized arrow resembles a compass with a flat side to run along the wall. Unfortunately it is totally inaccurate! I need a good stud finder, cause I have bought several kinds and they all failed.
So I use a very small nail to find stud, but hammering it where I think the stud is. I use an expensive Zircon stud finder, but since it is not so accurate I usually end up tapping, drilling, and then giving up and molly-bolting on my lathe and plaster walls.
I am attracted to classic homes and I always end up with lathe and plaster. Very solid but a pain to hang things on, and cracky but worth it. I tested it once when we had baseboards off and I could see the stud, it was not accurate. We have a ton of projects coming up in our new house and it would be awesome not to have to also fix the holy drywall! Thanks for the opportunity. I always ask my wife to help with projects around the house.
Takes about 4 holes , then patch n paint. My stud finder works like a charm every time. I simply hold it up close to my chest and it lights up like a christmas tree! Actually I use a combination of the knocking method, looking for nail heads in the wall or baseboards, plus utilizing a stud finder to confirm my findings. Finally I will push a small pin through the drywall to make sure I am contacting a wood surface.
This usually works for me, but I would really like to try the Franklin Sensor because my stud finder has been through the war and I am running out of push pins!
Each of my girls would get on top of one another, each facing away from me, leaving me just a tower of beautiful tight fresh pussies for me to pick and choose which to sink my cock into according to my whim. The girls managed to infer her point, and each climbed one on top of the other. I was faced with their perfect taut asscheeks, their hairless, tight pussies, looking like roses ready to open just for me, and I was blown away by how truly identical they all looked.
I grinned, as I got an Idea. I stroked her thighs to relax her, as I eased my thick head inside her virgin quim, savoring her exquisite tightness, biting my lip to stop myself bellowing like a bull in heat. Diana had no such restraint, however, and wailed like a banshee, her loving sobs coming thick and fast. Timmy, this is soooooo goood! I love your fat, perfect cock Timmy! I so wanted to just ram her hard, keep plowing her virgin pussy as deep as I could, Diana speech was just incoherent worship of my phallus at this point, so it seems the lucky girl had reached her limit as well.
Her pussy was so hot and wet, it was impossible for me to tell just how much I had stuffed in her, so I decided to get an experts opinion. Kate broke her sloppy cumswapping kiss with Angela, and practically buried her face right next to my fat meat. She could have easily seen from further away, but I know that Kate never missed a chance to get a sniff of that heady cocktail of pussyjuice and my powerful musk intertwined. Years of practise watching me slamming my prick into tight cunnies close up had given Kate an expert's eye for appraising just how many inches of my meat were left hanging outside a girls pussy with just a glance.
She let out an impressed whistle. You managed to take 13 inches of monstercock, how does it feel? Such a big hard fat fucking cock fucking me so deep! I gave her ass a playful smack, which drew a new bout of moans from her, as I let her feel my cock filling her so full, without moving.
I felt her tighten around my cock. And she loved it. So, Diana, will you worship me? I could swear I felt my cock throb and grow another inch inside her, making her shriek. I was sorely tempted to let loose and pound my newest love slave til I poured my load into her womb, but the whimpering cries and pleading stares of Jess and Lara made me realise that I shouldn't just give all my loving to Diana. I gave a fast jerk of my hips, raking my massive cockhead against her G-spot, triggering a cluster orgasm in her quim, as I pulled out.
She moaned and squealed as I pulled out, her pussy desperately trying to hold me in and keep me for herself, but I would not be deterred.
As my cock emerged from Diana's virgin love tunnel, Kate and Angela were upon it like ravenous she-wolves, licking and sucking off her virgin juices basting my meat.
As they cleaned it, they helpfully took hold of my root, guiding it to Jess's quim. I pushed myself into her, savoring that feeling of my monster cock claiming a fresh virgin pussy, to be mine and only mine. She howled in pleasure, desperately trying to hump herself back onto me, greedily wanting more inches of my cock. Her sisters were nearly sent flying off this human tower, but lust was nearly driving her wild. She didn't care about anything but my schlong. I seized her hips, holding her steady, her shaking and thrashing utterly powerless against my grip.
I gave your sister 13 inches of rock hard monster cock, right here. Would you like that? She nearly squealed at the idea. Diana managed to protest. Angela silenced her with a smack across her fleshy cheeks. It was unreal how much her cunny felt like her sisters, down to the smallest detail of how each caressed each of my mega inches. Seems both of them are just sluts born to fuck their bull hung stud cousin.
Do we both lose? I stood, bringing my crotch up level to Lara's level on the three girl tower. I pushed forward, thrusting my hips to spear her hard, feeling as she came like a firecracker, her pussy convulsing along every inch of my shaft that I thrust into her.
I pulled her onto me as I let my hips drive inch after inch inside her, claiming exquisite virgin territory no other man would ever be able to feel.
I felt the satisfaction of taking the virginities of three beautiful stacked size queens in rapid succession, before remembering the job at hand. I sawed my length in and out of her as she panted hard, before I wa satisfied I had as much as I could inside her.
She pulled her head back, before giving me a quizzical look. I smiled at her, and motioned for her to speak up.
I picked up Lara in my arms, before pulling her off my cock and setting her down next to her sisters. Angela and Kate once more rushed to my side, licking and kissing my monster dong til it was free of their juices, but bathed in mother and daughters saliva. I figured that each of you could take just as much of my cock as each other. They started to object, but I gripped my cock, waving it under their noses.
They knew I was in charge here. They were all nearly in tears as I looked down on them, holding each others naked bodies together. A slowly dawning look of joy spread across each on their faces as they figured it out. Get on all fours with your asses facing me. I kept it up, my cock almost a blur as I plunged in and out of each girl's pussy, the sheer size and heat of my cock making sure that each girl was constantly cumming even as I was fucking one of their pussies at a time. Finally, I felt a familiar twinge inside.
Angela cupped their faces. Please Timmy, give us your cum! I kept right on switching between their three cunnies, when I felt my sack seize up, and a thick white blast surging up my cock yet again. After I had hosed her insides with plenty of my cum, I pulled out, leaving a thick trail of my jizz on her back as I quickly slammed my spurting cannon into Jessica's womb. I came and I came, spurting my thick load deep into each of their pussies.
The pleasure was too much for them, and each of them passed out, screaming in orgasm. When all three of their pussies were filled with my cum, my loads were no longer erupting with as much intensity, but I was still spurting.
I pulled my cannon out and offered it to Kate and Angela, who gratefully took turns sucking my bloated knob for my sweet, rich, and virile cream, until finally, my orgasm finally finished.
I sat back on Kate's bed, feeling winded for the first time tonight, but recovering quickly. Kate gulped down my load and giggled.
Holly managed to prop herself up into a sitting position, as she looked at all of us dreamily. I want to try something I saw in a magazine, where this stud put his cock between a woman's breasts and rubbed them until he came. I need to feel that. My mom went to her side. Timmy, maybe she and I should give you a titfuck sandwich. Holly looked at her sister. I turned my head to her. She tried to pout sullenly, but she knew that my tongue was second only to my cock in terms of sending a woman's pussy into orbit.
I picked her up and brought her pink, gushing slit up to my lips, licking and sucking at her folds and swiping at her clit with my tongue. She gasped, and moaned, locking her legs around my head to keep from falling off. There was a moment, and I felt a second pair of tits wrap around my shaft, and they slowly started to wank my cock with their boobs. She was shaking as she came nonstop. My cumslit outpoured more generous pre, and the pair licked up the offering eagerly.
I wish I was like you when we were younger, we could have been doing this for years. My mother laughed, not missing a stroke as she furiously wanked my rod. But I still would have been able to feel my tits mashed against yours. This is sho hot, and it feels so good! Oh, I want to just stay here with you forever, and have this kind of sex everyday!
The feeling, and the idea, sent me into overdrive - my tongue began coaxing orgasm after orgasm out of my sister, as she moaned and screamed. It was all too much for me, I felt my balls begin to throb. Reluctantly, I pushed my mother and aunt away from my cock, and then, just as I felt my cum travelling up my shaft, with well practised precision, I let Kate fall from my shoulders and face, down, onto my cockhead just as it was ready to blow.
Gravity forced her down just as my shooting jizz-cannon pushed her up, making her feel the impact doubly. She arched her back and moaned in a combination of surprise and sheer pleasure, as she was slowly impaled further and further on my spurting rod. My pearly virile seed was fountaining out of her overstuffed quim, leading to Holli and Angela sucking and licking around my rod on the many inches that weren't stuffed inside Kate's hot box.
The sensation was too much for her, on top of the numerous quivering orgasms I'd given her before, and she passed out with a big smile on her face. Her overfilled pussy was leaking my juices onto her bedspread, staining it with my scent. Holly and Angela got up and I put my arms around them, my hands groping their huge tits freely. Holly looked at her, a look of surprise creeping on her face. You wanted Timmy to finish the girls off first, so we could share his horseprick?
I may have been very naughty, and set it up so you and the girls would fuck Timmy and move in with us. Holly and I could just share utterly bemused looks, not knowing what on earth she was talking about.
Sex toy manufacturers wanted to be able to market a plastic cock that's as amazing as yours. I furrowed my brow. When did you ever get a mold of my cock made? I know your cock so well, I could sculpt it just from memory. Of course, your massive pussy pleaser right now would send most women running scared, but the cock you had when we first fucked, my darling boys monster that dwarfs all other men, that sold really well.
Thanks to some crafty negotiating, I managed to get us all of the profits from now on. I took a cut as your manager and head slut, but the rest is all yours, Timmy. My eyes went wide as I realised what she was saying. It was a little much for even me to take. Holly, however, pressed on. The one about that dildo! My mom could only grin and nod. I had to do something to get you away from him.
So, I inserted your name into one of the mailing lists for our email system, and waited for you to get curious enough to try it. So, when Jeffrey threw a tantrum and threw you all out, I knew you had to come here, with us. I stared at her for a second, before breaking out into a grin. She was surprised, but leaned into this kiss, the pair letting their tits mash together as they embraced lewdly, two perfect women in perfect lesbian love. I smiled, as I got an idea for how to finish the night.
Posted by Epic Lust at Anonymous September 20, at Anonymous September 20, at 4: Anonymous September 20, at 9: Peter Farrell September 20, at 4: Anonymous September 21, at Peter Farrell September 22, at Anonymous September 24, at Peter Farrell September 25, at Anonymous October 15, at 8: Peter Farrell October 17, at Anonymous September 22, at 6: Anonymous October 15, at Newer Post Older Post Home.
Plumb down to the floor and mark two points for your bottom plate. Use a chaulk line to snap a line between these two points. Place your bottom plate on the floor and line it up on the line you just snapped.
Even though you don't have any vertical studs in place at this point your top and bottom plates should be almost perfectly aligned. Cut and install a stud a vertical board for the wall into the top and bottom plates.
The stud should fit snug in between the top and bottom. It should be able to stand up on its on. If you have to really hammer on it to get it in then it's probably to long. Take it down and trim a small amount off. Repeat step 5 until all of the studs are in place. You may have less than 16" between the last two boards, that's okay. Take your 4' level and double check that the wall is plumb up and down and relatively flush on the service.
By flush I mean that none of the studs are bowed so much that they stick out further than the other studs. If they do then you'll have a hump in your drywall and your wall will look wavy.
A bowed stud who's hump goes towards the wall is better, the drywall will still be straight on the outside. Nail your bottom plate into the floor. I recommend a concrete masonry gun.
Mainly because it uses tiny little bullets and you basically have a gun in your basement, very cool. Mainly because I messed up a lot at first and needed to be able to move the wall a bit. The contractors I consulted with said it was not a big deal to skip it for a basement project.
If your bottom plate is not perfectly straight you may want to nail one end of the plate into the floor first and then use a small sledgehammer to knock the rest of it into alignment before you nail it down. You'll know this because the bottom plate won't line up perfectly with the chalk line that you snapped. I hope that helps. Building a wall on the floor by yourself can be really frustrating. My second wall took me about two hours to prep and then when I lifted it into place it didn't fit because one section of the basement floor was just slightly higher.
It was killing me that I had to undo most of it and guess what, I had nailed it together so that was not easy. Once you get the hang of how to build a wall stick by stick you can do it by yourself and it's actually really fun. I promise you you'll be sneaking down to the basement before you go to sleep to get one last look at what you've created.
Good luck, ping me with questions, I'm working on a video to go along with this article because I couldn't find any that I liked to share with you online.
If someone finds one please tell me! Free Basement Cost Estimator. Here's the deal, if you'll give me your email address your good one, not that fakey one you have for male enhancement pills I'll send you some great basement content about once a week. You're about to get a new friend, me! Click the Button Below to Sign Up. Click the Button Below. This is such an awesome website, and such great advice. Thanks so much for documenting your learnings, mistakes, recommendations, etc.
About to start my basement project and stumbled on your site. Unreal, there is a website for everything! It never occured to me to type in ifinishedmybasement. Anyhow a quick question Obviously if you "pre build" the wall on the floor you can nail the studs directly into the top and bottom of the plates. If the plates are installed first you can't do that. Are you toe nailing everything? I definately agree on the stick by stick method in the basement environment due to the uneven floors, but it seems nailing in the studs will be a bit more messy.
Chris - Did you see my other site? That's great that you've started. Yes, toe nailing is the way to go. In fact it's the only way, as you said, when you're stick building highly recommended. It's rock solid and it's all hidden by the drywall once it goes up. Hey Jason, To extend Chris' question, how did you toe nail exterior walls to both the top and bottom plates?
For a partition wall, it would make sense to "stick build," considering the room to work with a hammer on both sides of the plate. However, when an exterior wall is just inches away from the concrete wall, how is it even possible to maneuver a hammer for the backside toe nail?
Dan - I think I'm understand this correctly, you're asking how to nail in your outside framed walls to the joists and floor? The top plate of your wall will nail straight up into the floor joist above no toenail required. Same for the bottom plate, except you'll need a concrete gun , but again straight down.
You'll have to toenail the studs to the bottom and top plates but you should have plenty of clearance for that. The only part that was really tricky for me was when I needed blocking. For that, I couldn't fit my nail gun in place so I had to use screws and an impact driver. My video series does the best job of explaining how exactly how to do framing. It's definitely one of the trickier concepts to write about.
I also had to do blocking and here is a fast method I came up with and used with flawless results framing gun: The longer piece is on the bottom. Put the blocking in to place use the hammer if it's tight.
The longer piece on the bottom won't let the original piece go higher than the joists, so you can shoot the framing gun at an angle through them. Remove clamp and reuse the longer piece. They can fit about anywhere and handle much easier than a hammer. Hi Doug - I've never used one myself but I've heard other people like them. Yes, definitely worth the money over manual hammering. Place one fastener min on opposing sides.
I highly recommend using screws instead of nails, especially for newbies. I don't agree that it is faster. If it was, professional framers I framed for 3 years almost NEVER use a toenail unless it is necessary, usually when you join trusses to top plates and in valley framing. Another option is the use of mechanical fasteners, such as joist hangers or hurricane ties. They can be applied to the top and bottom plates before the plates are installed so you just slip the studs in place and screw the to the brackets.
Hi Jason, Love the site! Getting ready to start on my basement!! I still have to do the exterior framing on the walls. But all rough electrical, plumbing, etc is already in place. Once I get the framing done, I can run the outlets, lights, switches, etc.
Then have the drywallers come in. I see in your pics that you use the R13 Batt with a moisture barrier. Do you do this to save space or is it just preference.
I was considering using the foam panels and gluing them to the exterior walls, then framing out from there. Rick - Thanks man. For me it was just easier to work with and a bit cheaper but both are good options.
Have fun with it! I love our basement. Have you used steel studs, or primarily lumber? Thinking of giving wall framing the ole college try, and thought I'd test it out on some crappy 2x4s from Lowes before graduating to the good stuff.
Hello Steve - I've never used steel studs, I heard those are nice but they're a whole different ballgame. I don't know about you but my college effort was sub-par at best. I want to see some astronaut effort out there, you either make it off the moon or you die trying! What you don't make clear is that the end stud, at the corner or at the doorway, is not included in the 16"on center.
If this is not clear, then the first piece of Sheetrock will end at the edge, not the center of the fourth stud. Where ever you start your layout.. You really want to think about where you will start your drywall. Another option is the next wall that runs into it you can start layout at We are just starting the planning phase of finishing our basement and are very excited to start building. In our area we need to build a floating wall because of potential movement of basement floor.
Can you still build it stick by stick in this way? If so, how does that work? Adam - The in-place method is not ideal if you're building a floating wall because you will not have a secure top plate to nail your studs into. I've never built floating walls but this video explains it pretty well. Jason - Great site. I'm looking to finish my basement by mid I've started reading up on everything. One book I am reading says to use furring strips against the foundation walls, not 2x4s.
What do you know about this? I think I would prefer 2x4s just to be consistent. Hey Paul - That's awesome - is your year! I also read about furring strips and I considered them strongly. But in the end the cost savings weren't really there and things like receptacles and light switches seemed to all be standardized for 2x4 construction. The professional companies I talked to also all use 2x4 and not furring. It's an option, and it's not a bad one, but I would personally recommend 2x4 unless there's a specific reason to go against the standard.
Hi Jason, really enjoying your site. I am just embarking on a scary big basement project, over sq ft. I have done a fair bit of outdoor construction before decks, fences, etc but havent done walls, and your site is very helpful. The basement walls concrete are not studded yet, but do have 3" of spray foam applied to them.
I'm told I neednt worry about vapor barrier as a result. I'm in Canada, so cold is definitely a concern. Any other concerns framing inside of spray-foamed concerete?
Other thing is by code I need to "float" the walls on big nails to allow for floor movement. You have any tips or experience on doing this? It has me a bit freaked. Okay, I've never built a floating wall but a few people have asked now. This video is the best explanation I've found on the web. Erik - There's a free Gold membership book and design files for you if you'll send me some pics and video of your floating wall, I really want to do an article on that!
If it isn't nailed down first, how do you keep the bottom plate from sliding around on the floor while you are standing up the studs? What is the benefit of waiting? Nathan - The big benefit to me was that I wasn't sure if I had built the wall straight and plumb, especially for my first couple of walls. I was worried that if I nailed it to the floor first and then had to adjust it that I would have to rip it out of the floor.
If you cut the studs the right length they will put enough pressure on the bottom plate to hold it in place. For me, a perfect length cut meant I needed to tap the top of the stud with my fist or rubber mallet to get it to fit between the top and bottom plates. If I cut it too short I'd have to shim it or more often just toss it and use it some place else. I DID nail the stud to the bottom plate, so once you had a few in place the entire wall moved together.
Then if it was not plumb I could just knock it with my foot or sledgehammer to line it up. Which of the books at your Amazon store have info about stick by stick framing? BTW, thanks for the deal on your book! Downloaded last night just in time The guy at the lumber yard suggested I start my wall about a half inch out from the wall for some dead air space like extra insulation of sorts.
Looking at it now, I'm thinking it looks like a challenge. Hard to not have the wall to work against. What do you think? Hey David - Yes, he's right. You should have some space. It's a little tricky to explain in text and pictures. I have a step by step wall framing video as part of the package deal with my book. Of course, I'm a bit biased, but I highly recommend it! A lot of people have told me it's worth 2 to 3 times the cost. Thanks for the quick reply! Well, talking to some other folks and hearing from you, I'm gonna do that gap after all; a whole inch actually.
One other thing- I've seen so many differing opinions on vapour barrier that it's hard to tell which one is right. Right now, I'm thinking I will put the barrier over top of the insulation, on the outside of the studs before putting up the drywall.
David - I can't reliable comment on the vapor barrier question, at least not yet. I just haven't done enough research on it nor have I had to install my own. I'm hoping to add some articles in the near future on this topic.
Let me know if you find any good resources. I leave no gap I use foam on a roll to seal each cavity glued to the back of the studs and to the bottom stud to keep from contacting the floor directly. This way each cavity 8s sealed and any air leaking in will be limited to a cavity not the entire wall. I used acoustic sealent on all the studs to the vapor barrior with minimal staples to not make holes in it and get perfect seal. My basement is super warm.
I would love to see a section or video on framing corners and corners less than 90 degrees such as 45 degrees. Keep up the great work. This was great information for starting on finishing our basement, but I'm really apprehensive about attaching the bottom plate. I would really rather not compromise the concrete floor for fear of water seeping up through.
We have a very old home and something I've never seen in our basement. There is a 2inch wide trough around the perimeter of the whole basement. We have been here 3 year, had some rather significant rain and snow fall and never had standing water in the basement, sometimes the trough has a little water in it but never enough to overflow. It really seems like a pretty clever way of keeping any water out of the basement but kind of puzzles me about working around it to put up exterior walls.
Do you think it's ok just to place the wall a few inches in front of the trough? Is it possible to NOT attach the bottom plate? Hi Danielle - Yes, you will have to attach the bottom plate. Not knowing the exact condition of your flooring I recommend you put up a small test wall to see how the nail adheres to your concrete.
Does it break apart, etc. I also would recommend you use an adhesive in addition to nailing your bottom plate. As for the water trough, you should be able to build in front of that, just give it a couple inches of clearance so it's no compromised. These days those are installed outside of the foundation, not inside. Your situation is unique and I would recommend have a few professional companies come out to give you a quote and an opinion on the water trough.
You will also want to check with your local building department to make sure you'll be up to code with that trough exposed behind the wall. I know this sounds like a lot of work, but it's just the first step of many. Get these "hammered" out, so to speak and you'll be on your way. You can do it! Thanks for the helpful tips. I took the plunge this week and started my first wall. I'm using your recommended stick by stick method. SO far so good thanks to my new 12" saw purchased from your amazon store and new nail gun!
Using real power tools makes a big difference. Matt - That's awesome! Thanks for purchasing through the store, I saw that go through. Good luck with it, stay safe and have fun. I am in a newly constructed house and looking to finish my basement immediately. I've heard from various people that we should wait to do anything including painting until the house is settled. What are your thoughts on this particularly pertaining to the basement?
This website is so informative, we really appreciate the effort you have made to enlighten us. We are keen to get started and hopefully save ourselves lot's of money.
When building an interior wall my city's code states that there has to be a gap on top or bottom or the wall to prevent cracking due to ground expansion.
Hi Kurt - So what you need to build is a "floating wall". Unfortunately I don't have a specific link or article for you just yet. Hello Sunny - Yes! I have several videos that are included when you purchase the book showing how to build a wall- step by step. The only things I don't cover are drywall and plumbing. You can do itk! I am stick building a basement wall and have a question I haven't found a google answer for. The wall is split at the ceiling by a steel structural beam.
I can't make a continuous string line to ensure straightness at the ceiling, but I understand I should install that beam first. What's a good way to make sure the two "halves" of the ceiling beam line up?
Hi Andrew - Great question. What you want to do is draw a single continuous line snap a chalk line on the floor first. Then use a plumb bob to transfer two or three reference points to the ceiling. Use a clamp or a friend to hold the string end of the bob to the joist in the ceiling, then see if the point of the plumb bob is pointing directly at the reference line on the floor.
Once it's lined up, mark and X on the spot where the string is meeting the ceiling joist, that's your reference point. You can mark the front or the back of where the bottom and top plates will go, I found the front to be the easiest.
It takes a little time to get the plumb bob just right but the results are worth it, a super straight wall. Hopefully I've explained it ok.
What is a "plate? The whole process comes to a halt because I don't know what a plate is. Is that one of those metal things that the wood sits in? The "plate" is just another word for saying the wood beam that makes up the bottom of your wall. It's not metal unless you're framing your whole basement with metal. The "top plate" and "bottom plate" are just referring to the wood beams making up the top and bottom of the wall.
It's called a plate because the rest of the wall studs sit on top of it. As a steak sits on top of a plate. Could you talk about toe nailing? How many nails do I need at each end of the stud? How can I nail them without the stud moving? Hi Lori - I used 2 nails on each end of the stud.
Getting the stud not to move is more art than science, it certainly took a little practice for me to "nail" it. What I did first was to try and cut the stud so it just a touch longer than it needed to be - this way it was already snug in it's place before I went to nail it. I would also set it back a. Do NOT place your left hand anywhere near where the nail is going to go - some boards have weirds knots in them that can make a nail turn in unexpected ways - very common injury is someone toe-nailing their hand!
I cover this topic in detail and with video in my basement finishing course. I am thinking about putting in a Dricore subfloor. Do you have any experience with this product? I have seen that you can put the Dricore down first and build the walls on top of it.
I have also seen it where you can build the walls and then fit the dricore in, which requires more cuts, etc It seems like Dricore recommends putting the floor down first, but I want to make sure I do it right the first time. I am assuming I would just nail the bottom plate right through the Dricore, but not sure if I need to use pressure treated for the bottom plate. I may do it for peace of mind. Any thoughts on the Dricore and how it fits with building walls? Hi Robert - I haven't used Dricore, so my experience is zero.
I would still frame the walls first and then install the dri-core. As a general rule I recommend doing the flooring last. If you do end up using it, be sure to come back and let us know what you thought of it. Wondering how you secure the studs when using the building wall in place method. Do you use screws and drive at 45 degrees?
Hi Dave - I use a nail gun and "toe-nail" two nails at the top and 2 at the bottom. Each at a roughly 45 degree angle. Screws are slower and more expensive but they work fine and are perfectly legal per code.
In fact I started with screws for my first couple of walls because I didn't have a nail gun and wasn't quite ready to commit to nailing top-plates to the joists in my house. Good luck, hope that helps! Love the information Jason. I'm about to finish my basement and have done basements before. My issue is that the outside of my basement is metal studding.
Do i have to use metal for inside walls or can i use wood? Hey Dan - Unless there's some weird reason you must use metal wood walls will be fine. Jason, I have a new home and I want to finish the basement myself. The joists in the the ceiling are I-joists, formed from plywood sandwiched between two thin 1 inch pieces of what look like furring strips. Thanks for any advice you can offer. You have to put 2x4's between the joists, level with the bottom of the joist, it's called blocking.
Nail the top plate of your wall to the blocking. I spaced mine every 24 inches. This process takes a lot less time with a laser measure. Jason Great site and appreciate the advice. One question I have is what are your thoughts on using 2 bottom plates non treated on top of treated Is this a waste of money or would it make sense when it comes to drywalling and finish trim leaving more room for screwing and nailing?
I appreciate your input. Hey Rick - In my opinion it's a waste of money. You can use the vertical studs to secure trim. In "some" areas you have a double bottom plate where floating walls are required, but that's not the case for most areas.
Thanks for this tutorial! I'm a little late to the party. What do you mean by "plates" when you talk about lining up top plates and bottom plates? Hi Trina - You're fashionably late. When you say a "plate" you are just referring specifically to the board at the top of the wall or the bottom of the wall - versus the vertical boards or studs that are in between the top and bottom boards. Very common question, I appreciate you asking. I am a contractor and was intrigued by the original link's picture and was curious why it was marked with a red X.
After reading your article I understood why. For a beginner, building a wall and lifting it into place poses many challenges. Even for a "professional ", sometimes lol I do mostly renovations and 1, screws are better. After reading the article I realize that you are well on your way to learning a trade. Congratulations on not being intimidated. Thanks Sean - I've heard from several contractors who have a tough time understanding why some of the very basics of finishing a basement need an explanation.
But as you say in your comment - for a beginner - there's a different starting point. I am finishing my basement and my contractor does not want to nail the stud into the top plate. Hi Rhonda - The top plate connects the studs to the ceiling of your basement. It is absolutely require, there's no way to build a wall without it. Now, you may see that some people use a "double" top plate I don't know why, single should be all you need. If someone knows why you would have two and wants to chime in on the comments - I'd love to hear it.
A double top plate is used for framing walls that are intended to bear loads from the roof, floors, etc. Because finished basement walls are not carrying any load other than the weight of the drywall the double top plate is not required, just like how headers are not required above door and window openings.
The reason for sometimes using double plates is to "Tie" the walls together at corners. This used to be standard practice, for good reason. The bottom of the plate pair on one side of the corner is cut to the outside of the intersecting wall, and the top of the plate pair is cut the the inside of the intersecting wall.
That way the corner ends up like a halving joing, giving plenty of room for vertical nails or screws to "Lock" the two walls together. This makes loadbearing walls, especially outside walls much stronger. For non load bearing walls, such as the infill basement walls discussed here, it is probably unneccessary. But interlocking double top plates especially, and bottom plates if no continuous foundation is supporting it make a significant difference to the strength of a building, and in a severe weather or seismic event, could easily make the difference between little or no damage, and complete failure.
It also means that for long walls where the individual timbers are too short to make up the full distance, the top and bottom halves of the plates can simply be overlapped at the joints to make a very stong continuous plate, which before the invention of pressed metal connectors etc, was the best, simplest, and easiest way to build a strong wall. It still makes sense today!!
It gives a wider nailing area for attaching linings etc. During a storm or an earthquake, I would rather be in a house with double plates in a storm than in an equivalent one with single plates.
Good tips and I really appreciate your taking the time to answer so many questions! I wanted to strongly encourage everyone to pay a visit to their local building department before starting this process! If you live in an area with expansive soil, you MUST install a float joint in the wall to isolate the slab from the wall framing.
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